The DNA of Durian Pleasures

I’m a durian fan. A huge one. I could not pass up the chance when Nigel invited Nic and me to a true Balik Pulau durian experience. There’s nothing like the king of fruits to bring strangers together.

On our way to Gertak Sanggul

The Sunday morning drive was pleasant – we took the road to Gertak Sanggul tailing Nigel’s Corolla while anticipating luscious, bitter durian. Would we get our hands on premium stuff?

Halfway, we stopped to wait for 3 other cars – this was going to be a group affair. The durian orchard owner, Pao Lun, rode his Honda though. Later we’d know why.

Much weaving about the hilly areas later, we turned off onto a steep road going up uphill. We parked our cars, got on with the introductions and hiked some more. Now you know why Pao Lun was on his trusty Honda bike. He could just ride up to the top of the hill.

I didn’t exactly pant while climbing the hill but it was strenuous on my calves and thighs. This was truly working up an appetite.

A cardio workout for the heart

Finally we reached the house on the top of the hill. The view was spectacular. I could see a promontory; this very promontory saved the lives of those living on this side of the shore during the 2004 tsunami which hit parts of southern Penang island.

What a view from the top of the hill

All around us were durian trees, rambutan trees and papaya trees. Netting was strung across the trees for 2 reasons – to collect the falling durians and to protect people from getting concussions while walking underneath these tall trees. (Durians were falling with dull thuds on the ground when we were there so yes, they do fall and they don’t care who they hit. They’re durians, remember? Thorny and heavy.)

But the moment Pao Lun started opening his stash of durians, everyone went into a revered silence, watching his methodical movements.

We watch eagerly as Pao Lun opens durians

It was ecstatic just looking at him opening durians, and showing us the creamy yellow flesh; some were pale yellow, others were rich sunshine yellow. Some looked moist, others dry.

Each one had its own name, its own DNA of taste. Bitter yet aromatic, soft with a delicate aftertaste. Or creamy sweet, sweet lingering till the end. Or wonderfully intense aroma heightened by thick custard-like flesh with small seeds.

Not that I recognised their names. But each durian Pao Lun presented us was like heaven in a seed of flesh. From the youngest to the oldest, we were all quiet as we licked our fingers clean, looking forward to the next durian taste.

Caught on camera tucking into durians

Soon the basket of durian shells were filling up. After gorging for almost 30 minutes, we were all truly sated, our breathing a tad laboured as we struggled to say no to yet another bounty.

Part of the durian eating gang!

I picked up an empty durian shell section and went in search of a tap to rinse my mouth and wash my hands. The tap brought forth fresh spring water (or so someone said) and I drank our Malaysian-Balik Pulau Evian water. It tasted OK.

Drinking water from the durian shell, according to local folklore, prevents heatiness after eating durian. Drinking water with a pinch of salt is also good as a prevention technique. Washing one’s hands underneath the running tap (the water must run off the durian shell first) also gets rid of the durian smell from one’s fingers. Believe it or not, it works.

This is perhaps my first of many durian outings – I am so glad I live in Penang. It’s the durian season and you can find durians on every street corner but nothing is as hedonistic as enjoying durians on top of a hill in Balik Pulau while drinking in a view of the southern tip of the island.

Thanks to Nigel and Fee for this great introduction to Pao Lun’s durian orchard! Fee promises more durians to come. Yum!

More great photos over here.

UPDATE: Here is Pao Lun’s mobile number in case you want to call him and make a date to visit the farm and have some durians – 016 436 4640

0 replies
      • Maya
        Maya says:

        Here’s one more durian contact for you. This comes from a friend of mine. I have not been to this one yet but you can always search using GoogleMaps and a quick call to Uncle Lim and you can probably find it.

        Lim Chong Teng (Peng Siew)
        51, MK 5, Titi Serong, 11000 Balik Pulau
        Tel : 04-866 8551

        Reply
    • Maya
      Maya says:

      HI John – Thanks for your message. I hope you have tried eating a durian rather than drinking its juice. There’s nothing comparable to the fresh fruit, I tell you. Anyway your website is only applicable to those living in the US and Canada. I’m curious – is this product from Malaysia?

      Reply

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  1. [...] us, Balik Pulau is about durians when the season rolls around each May to August. It thrills us that we get to climb some hills just [...]

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